Designed as a semi-rigid band of three rows of oval-cut citrines, centering a dahlia, a removable clip brooch, with circular-cut topaz and diamond pistil, supported by layers of articulated pear-shaped citrine petals with articulated brilliant-cut diamond boxes. The bracelet is signed Cartier London 18K and14K.
Cartier London, likely under the collaboration of Peter Lemarchand and Frederick A. Mew
This Cartier citrine, diamond, topaz and gold dahlia clip bracelet is an important jewel. It stands as an example of what Francesca Cartier Brickell, author, historian, and a direct descent of Cartier, described as the Cartier tenet "'Never copy, only create’. The idea behind it was that inspiration could and should be taken from everywhere, except from existing jewelry.” This unique jewel tells the story of Cartier: exploration of material, evolution of design, business acumen, collaborative relationships, and ingenuity.
This dahlia flower brooch is three dimensional, it mimics the form of a domed flowerhead. Each pear-shaped citrine petal is individually mounted and joined to a wire frame so that the petal can move independently. Worn as a brooch, this unique feature allows the flower to follow the contour of the body; therefore, placed at the curve of one’s shoulder, the petals will naturally fall into place. The only prior articulated example found was created in 1931 by Cartier Paris, and featured in a Harper’s Bazaar editorial, “A diamond head ornament has a flexible flower and leaves as a forehead piece.” The creation and execution of movement is an engineering feat. It requires precision and patience to cut matching gemstones, create and assemble a finished jewel. All must understand, communicate, and create in harmony - designer, lapidary and master jeweler for the outcome to be successful. Designing and executing a flower clip with articulation was innovative, and extraordinarily difficult to master, hence, few were made, and even fewer are extant. This exceptionally rare example is indeed a “genius” technological masterpiece.